6/18/98

My first full day in Tokyo:

I awoke really early and remembered that early in the morning is a great time to go to the Tsujiki Fish Market. Being fresh to the country, jet lagged to the supreme, and seeing, smelling, and tasting so early in the morning made it close to overwhelming. I kept thinking if only I had a place to cook!

I had to rush back to breakfast (rice, tofu, pickled vegetables) and a meeting, then sightseeing on a private bus.

Asasaka Shrine couldn't have been more lovely: Twin Buddhas; paper cranes; flowing water to wash off impurities; incense bought and put it in a large hanging metal cauldron to brush the smoke into my face to bring health. Received a #9 good fortune, mistakenly tied it onto a rack of bad fortunes (those that need to blow away with the wind), quickly untied it upon learning of my mistake and shoved it into my back pack.

Took a nap - awoke to dress in my finest to meet Sam Shepherd, Director of the Japanese-United States Educational Commission; Nobutaka Machimura, Minister of Education, Science, Sports, and Culture; Louise Crane, Minister-Counselor of the Embassy of Public Affairs, and receive a toast from the president of Fuji Bank, name forgotten.

Koto playing, ceremonial Kiyari chants, champagne, 4 varieties of beer, sushi, learned that Archer Mayor's sister is Senator Fulbright's second wife - just another day in the life of a typical Vermont teacher...

6/19/98

Today our group met with Yuji Tsushima, Diet Member of the Liberal Democratic Party. He was in consultation with the Prime Minister when Chinese officials reported that their currency was in great danger of not meeting parity. This is why Clinton had to step in and send help buying yen. I bought at its lowest by the way...Tsushima explained his exasperation with corporations that profit from trade surplus, but hold $ in New York banks during difficult times. He was very pleased with the US effort to stabilize the Yen. Albright will be here on Wednesday.

Highlight of the day had to be seeing the Tokyo Giants play the Dragons. I bought the cheapest ticket I could - it turned out to be a standing room only ticket. As I was stumbling around wide-eyed at all around me, a man, Keiji Uchida, called me over to watch with his group. He spoke English very well, helped me understand what was going on around the park and was extremely friendly. About half way through the game I learned that he was a Baltimore Oriole fan. As he was being so kind I offered to send him something with an Oriole logo on it. His expression quickly changed to sheer surprise and delight, he asked me if I had any children, I answered yes, two, and he disappeared, returning with two souvenirs. He also invited me to come to his house to visit, but I declined.

I am incredibly impressed with the kindness I have received from everyone in this lovely country.

6/20

This was written from Nagasaki:

I and two others left very early to take a train to a local village called Kamakura. This small town has a huge collection of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples.

We managed the subway fine; our train stopped right in front, grabbed the first seats we could find and chatted away for fifteen minutes or so. The conductor come along and told us we had move downstairs because we were in first class. We move downstairs but neglect to go out the door of the car. About ten minutes later he comes back and gives us a "you're giving me a headache" look and we get asked to move further along - when through the door we realize that indeed we had been traveling first class - we weren't able to sit again until we reached our next stop.

We arrived at Kamakura and realized it was a beach town. After a few false starts we made it to the beach. This was the first time I had seen the Pacific from the west looking east. The beach was not that attractive although beautiful mountains were to be seen on the other side of the bay. I was reminded of some mid Cape Cod areas; the shops and the smells, or perhaps more like Revere beach.

We saw many shrines and temples. One, Komyo-ji Temple, was constructed in 1223. It was in wonderful shape, and we were able to spend a few minutes inside after a funeral procession left. All were wearing deep black clothes, all modern style, but very similar.

After many more minute of walking in the hot sun (we all got a little sunburned), we found a great noodle shop - the food everywhere is excellent and surprisingly inexpensive.

After our rest we went to visit the largest Shrine, the Hachiman Shrine. Emperors Ojin and Chuai, and Empress Jingu are enshrined on the top of the hill in Kamakura. "It was constructed by Yoritomo as an offering to the God before the birth of his son in order that his wife Moscow might be accorded a safe and easy delivery."

Our next quest was to find the tomb of Yoritomo. On the way I took a picture of some girls playing softball an they all turned to me and smiled and gave me the peace sign. I yelled "Go Team" a few times and they laughed and looked confused. Then a teacher translated what it meant they laughed even louder and said "Go Team" a few times. As I was walking away I heard one of them yell to me, "I Love You!"

We were misdirected by someone to follow the next flight of stone stairs. Seeing that the stairs had not been cleaned that season, and seeing very little traffic, we took on our own Zen attitude and delivered ourselves to the top of the stairs. There were four shrines in all. All were dug out of the earth and all had very dilapidated stone work, yet there were modern offerings, such as water bottles, coins, and small juice cans. We did end up finding the tomb of Yoritomo, but it was being renovated and there were too many people. Our first discovery was clearly the superior.

Our next plan was to get back on the train and go to Hase, the home of The Great Buddha." This truly Great Buddha sits 37' tall and weighs about 274,428 lbs. His ear is 6.2 feet across; his mouth, 2.8; and each eye 3.3. We paid 14 cents to take a peek inside.

Long train trip back, and a rest and a trip to Shinjuku - the loudest wildest place in Tokyo. The Japanese were playing World Cup Soccer and every youth in Tokyo was in Shinjuku watching on every and any TV the could find - From the largest Over five stories tall, to the smallest, two inches across. I never saw less than five people watching. Usually many, many more. The noise as unreal. It reminded me of a cleaned up version of Blade Runner.

6/21

Flew to Nagasaki from Haneda Airport. The Japanese have added a new twist to air transport that gives the nervous flyer the added excitement of witnessing the direct cause of their demise moments before it happens: video out the front cabin. Fortunately Dr. Idelkope prescribed an appropriate antidote and I was able to take the innovation with some sense of abandonment.

As this is the rainy season the weather has not been great here, drizzling and humid. We stopped first at the oldest Catholic church in Japan- the Oura Catholic Church. Built in 1864, designated as a national treasure in '33, redesignated in '53, and is known as the "Church of the 26 Japanese Martyrs." On March 17, 1865, the hidden Christians of Nagasaki were discovered here and summarily crucified. A painting depicting the event hangs in the altar.

Soon after we visited Glover Garden - a restoration of a 19th century European settlement on the side of a steep hill overlooking Nagasaki Harbor. The houses were a unique combination of western style; columns, woodwork, and Japanese style tile pitched roofs. Some of the furniture was in place from each house and you could, with some imagination put yourself back to a different time and assume what life for a European in a foreign land may have been like.

After a fine, truly authentic, Chinese meal (Nagasaki has been an open port through most of its history), we visited the Peace Park. I assumed that I would find it to be an emotional experience, but it really is designed to be uplifting and not particularly somber. The highlight is a large 35' foot statue of a fairly racially indistinguishable man sitting with one knee bent under (to signify acceptance), one leg at rest on the ground (to symbolize readiness to take action), one hand pointing straight up (the bomb) and one hand pointing to his left (to symbolize peace). There were many, many, paper cranes in shrines on both sides of the statue. I walked back closer to the hypocenter and found a place where they saved the foundation of a prison yard; mangled re-bar coming from the cement. I walked further to a fountain - shaped like the outstretched wings of an angel. I played Simple Gifts a number of times on my recorder. It was fun, not really hard like I expected. Not joyous, not sad, but sort of nice - appropriate. I was complimented by a few members of our group and some Japanese high school students clapped; I'm really glad I decided to do it.

There is a huge pachinko (gambling) parlor about 50k from the Peace Park called the Hyper Center.

The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum, on the other hand was not quite so uplifting. Seeing international efforts for peace being put into action was great - but between the relics, the movies, the art, the photos, the melted glass, the clocks frozen at 11:02, the burned skin, the devastation, I was left with a feeling of appropriate regret. At no time has any of the exhibits tried to make sense of this, to place blame, to even orient it to its part of the War, beyond it being its last horrific act.

6/22

Long drive to Sasebo to ride a chartered boat through the "99 Islands." Really 170, but 100 is a perfect number and "you" make the hundredth. Incredible meal in a "Peppanuyaki" - a place where the food is brought and you cook it yourself on a large gas heated steel pan. We cooked onion, squid, cabbage, a form of scallop, a huge shrimp, and a bone-in whitefish - served with rice, crab-miso soup, and Asahi beer. Probably the best meal yet.

Back to the hotel for a workshop on traditional Japanese kite-making. Terrific presentation which only pictures will do justice.

6/23/98

Nagasaki Municipal Commercial High School

This is a relatively non-academic school. There are many more girls (82%) than boys. Not as many students take the University Exam.

Our day started by meeting with the staff and principal. The Student Council stands out front of the school every morning and greets the students; this is done as a formality so that the the council can familiarize themselves with their fellow students and to see how each of them are doing in the morning. This is common in Japanese high schools.

We presented gift to the school in the staff room. All the teachers have a desk in a separate room - both sides of the room have desks facing each other with the assistant principals desk in the center. All of the teachers watched us as we gave our presentation. It was quite a daunting experience.

We were then brought to the conference room, served green tea and candy, and we were given a presentation on the school specifics.

School Objective:

To develop well- balanced, cultured, individual human beings useful in the business world.

School Ideals:

Sincerity

Cheerfulness

Enterprising spirit

Some Principles:

B) To help students love truth and peace; to value a sense of responsibility; to heighten intelligence and to develop rational and creative facilities.

C) To encourage students to realize their full potential as creators of a better Japanese society and as representatives in an ideal global community.

E) To encourage students to contribute willingly to the cause of world peace.

WWW Address:

http://plaza17.mbn.or.jp/~nchs/

After the meeting e visited classes. I saw P.E., Dance, Home Economics and Abacus. The highlight of the morning was having two English students, Nakagawa Shiho and Masuda Tomomi, come pick me up in the conference room and take me to their class. In the class they gave me presents, helped me to fold an origami crane, interviewed me, answered my questions and I showed them some of my student's slideshows on the powerbook. I was so impressed with the girls - they were so kind, attentive, and bright. This has been without question one the best part of the trip so far.

Lunch in the conference room with the administrators and a few teachers.

The commercial art department is amazing. The students are incredibly proficient at making quality commercial art. They are schooled in airbrush technique, and their product had such a professional touch to it. It was very creative and personal. Their teacher , Bun Yannda, was very nice - I noticed that he did very little direct instruction and the students were willing to take risks with their work.

The day ended with the ritual cleaning of the school. Although there is a janitorial staff to do the major work, at three fifteen every day the students wash the sinks, clean the chalkboards, sweep the floor, manage the Japanese garden, empty the trash, move desks, and, I'm sure more, as all 900 students were busy doing some form of work.

Our day ended with an apprentice's version of the Japanese Tea Ceremony. The children were poised, yet were being instructed during the whole process. The true ceremony is extremely involved and takes many years to learn.Without question my best day in Japan.

6/24

Nishizaka Elementary School

This is an experimental public school - much of what is done is typical, but they highlight the early use of English and they try to promote a "global view. "Global View" is taught twice a month; English ten minutes a day, every day, while some of the older children take it more often.

From the very moment we walked up the stairs to the school grounds we all felt very welcome at the Nishizaka Elementary School in Nagasaki. It is very hot here and all the windows were open and many of the children saw us coming and yelled to us "Good morning!" and "Hello!" We all knew we were in for a special day.

After a greeting by the principal and some of the staff we were taken to the gym where we were given a greeting ceremony. The children took split bamboo they had decorated with paper flowers and formed an arch; there were about fifteen of these arches that we walked through while all the kids clapped. The principal greeted us, then we introduced ourselves while pointing to a map of the United States to show where we were from. The student council president, a lovely 6th grade girl, welcomed us on behalf of the students and then all the children sang there school song to us. It was very moving.

After the song I volunteered to play the Star Spangled Banner for them in return. I apologized in advance for my mistakes (very Japanese) and I'm glad I did for I must have made six of seven - but I'm still very glad I performed and the children were very appreciative.

We then presented gifts to the school and afterward the whole school got up, formed a circle, and we all did the Hokey-Pokey!!

We then walked out through the arches again and began our day of observation.

I started in the second grade watching them play music. There were 27 or 28 kids all in rows at individual desks. Each had either a castanet or a tambourine. I was impressed with their ability and their concentration, yet it was very childlike with much abandon. Kids would misbehave and the teacher would gently, verbally bring them back. It was an interesting style, very patient, yet firm.

I moved over to third grade calligraphy. They were working on the word river. I had a girl write the character in my journal. I saw arithmetic - very formal - and I saw some reading. The reading was very upbeat and creative. One group did some dramatic reading at the front of the room. One boy was wearing a paper headband with a black fish and a girl was wearing one with a red fish. Of course I don't know what the chorus was, but it was done with great pleasure and attention from the class.

The highlight of the day was lunch. At the teachers request everyone got up and about 1/4 of the class donned white smocks, hats and masks and left for the kitchen. They returned bringing milk, hot soup, broiled chicken, mashed potatoes, small bread loafs, sporks, trays, bowls, and plates. The children served the lunch to their classmates and to some of our group. It was adorable, efficient, clean, healthy, cooperative and tasty! All he kids put there stuff back when they were finished. Afterward they all brushed their teeth at sinks in the hallways and went to recess.

After recess they came back and did a whole school cleanup. Desks were moved to one side of the room, floors were cleaned and then desks moved to the other side and the other side of the floor was cleaned. Children slid themselves down the beautiful hardwood floors with cloths in hand; they cleaned the sinks, swept the floors and stairs, used a special machine to clean the erasers, washed the bathroom floors, the urinals and toilets. They did a truly remarkable job.

After lunch they have a special program called "Hello English." The English teacher goes into a television studio and does an English lesson for ten minutes so that all the children can see it on a television in their room. It's done this way because English teachers are hard to find and in this way they can have all the students participate at the same time. When the teacher asks a question you can hear the answer through the whole school, out the windows and in!

Music is played over the p.a. system during every free moment. Most of the time the music is with English music. There's a good morning song, goodbye song, songs like, shoulders, knees and toes, Mr. Thumbkin and the like. The children are all assigned pianacas in first grade and recorders in later grades. I played Simple Gifts a few times and played a duet, When the Saints Go Marching In, with a fourth grader.

6/25

I think i neglected to say that the weather in Nagasaki is almost unbearable. The humidity levels out at around 101%. When the sun shines, which is not often due to the fact we are in the rainy season, the heat is oppressive. I have been through many sets of clothes through a day and must shower at least two, sometimes three, times a day. Schools are in session throughout the summer and the only air conditioning is in the teacher's rooms and the principal's office. It does get as cold as freezing in the winter and there is no central heating in Kyushu schools. The children are given one uniform, which they must wear everyday and it will not be replaced unless very unusual circumstances arise. A coat is not issued, therefore they may not wear one. Gloves are allowed on particularly cold days.

Those that know me well know that I sweat like a pig at every opportunity, therefore I have been uncomfortable on many occasions since I've been here - today, thankfully, was different because we were visiting high-ranking officials were given a great deal of comfort in our interactions with people today.

Our first visit was with the Mayor of Nagasaki, Mr. Itoh. He spoke eloquently of the need for peace and of the indiscriminate nature of nuclear bombs. He said that he was proud of Nagasaki's history as having the only open port before the Meiji Restoration. This he said helped develop their culture and allowed many new ideas to flow through Nagasaki (Although, now that I think of it, this stream was dammed where Christianity tried to seep). We gave our gifts and he gave ours (nice tie pin - kite theme) and we were off with the group picture fiasco again.

After a break we met with President Tetsuo Yokoyama of Nagasaki University. He was much more deferential to his staff, only giving a short speech and individually handing out our gifts (nice tie pin - university emblem).

We were then led to a large conference room where the tables, in typical Japanese style, were placed one side facing another. Our group of 20 faced eight or nine male education faculty members and 30 to 40 education students. All the participants were served hot green tea by eight or nine female staff members. The juxtaposition of role was so severe you would have had to have had your eyes taped shut to not see it. We had microphones set in front of us and began a series of introductions and question and answer periods. The high(low)light came for me came when one of our group asked why so few women were teaching in the sciences. The question was directed to the students, but the students didn't want to answer because they didn't want to be put in a difficult position in front of their professors. The head honcho, name and title forgotten, said that he believed that girls lost interest in the sciences during junior high because "sometimes the experiments were messy and not very appealing." During light grumbling amongst his guests he did let up that as boys are often in charge of the equipment girls may lose interest. This brought more light grumbling. Because of the formal arrangement of the conference tables we could see the students behind the professors and it was clear from the women's expressions that they were pleased with our slight subversion.

A much more meaningful time came when the professors left and gave us free reign with the students. To the professors' credit, they made sure that this occasion happened unimpeded, for they encouraged discussion and left the room for a time - I believe that they truly wanted the students to hear a fresh perspective. Discussions were frank and open and I'm sure that many of the students felt rewarded for their patience. I spoke with three women about what it was like being a woman in a society where their work was not respected as much as a man's and they said it was hard. They were upset at the exit exams as they clearly were male oriented. I asked if they were doing anything directly to change their position. They all said no, but one answered that the best she could do now was to go into the profession, be the best teacher she could be, and prove others wrong.

I told them that I believed that children were not as well respected in America in comparison with Japan. They said that they didn't know too much about the conditions for children in America, but there are too many - their words; "hurried children" in Japan - too much work, too much Juku (cram school) and too much emphasis on achievement.

Sadly, I must say that this refreshing exchange may have been one of the most substantial moments of their semester.

Tomorrow: junior high

6/26

Nagasaki City Municipal Higashi Nagasaki Junior High School

I am beginning to have a very vague understanding of what it might be like to be a celebrity. Everywhere we went today we were waved to, commented upon, asked for autographs, given presents, asked for business cards. It was a constant, inexorable din of excitement. Some of us had to take occasional breaks in the principal's office to get away.

I don't have as much to add today because I don't find this age level quite as interesting. I found the children to be very much like the junior high kids in the U.S. They all had a good sense of themselves and I was pleased with their reaction to us. They sang a gorgeous song to us that must have been very hard to practice. They also sang their school song and the student council president greeted us in English. Each member of our group was asked a question.

I fell asleep on the bus on the way back and took a nap when I got back. The trip is beginning to take a toll on me physically; sweating, getting too much attention, I'm always on my best behavior, and I'm constantly dumbing down my English to be understood. I'm going to come home and someone is going to ask me about my trip. "Trip very good. Flew long time in airplane. I saw very good things. Happy to be home."

Went out to eat by myself and came back to the hotel and finally watched an American movie in English on the tv. It was ten bucks, but it was worth it...

6/27

Today I was picked up by my host family, Takiko and Hiroshi Kuribayashi. I first met Takiko at a large conference room in the basement of the hotel. Again, we sat in Japanese conference style, Americans facing Japanese. Our names were called and we shook hands and were off.

Hiroshi was waiting in the car. I was immediately impressed with their good nature. I sensed that Hiroshi and Takiko were very kind and had a good sense of humor. I couldn't, of course, understand a word they said, but I heard them laugh and chuckle at the things they said to each other. We went to Dijima to see an old area of Nagasaki where the Portuguese and then, eventually, the Dutch were confined. This small island was the only place they could stay while they were trading their goods. This port was where the first camera, wine, elephant, ostrich, and camel came into Japan. We walked through the area a bit, went to its museum, and saw a movie about life during that time. Only fifteen people stayed in the compound at one time. The captain had to travel to Edo once a year to visit with the Shogun. Dijima was the first place in Japan that people ate with a knife and fork. This is where I buried a fingernail - a custom that Junie P. told me would ensure that I will return someday.

We ate at a Chinese restaurant and went to Mt. Insa - the highest mountain in the area. From there we had a wonderful view of the harbor and Nagasaki City. I saw the Peace Park on my left side and the huge Mitsubishi Shipyard to the right. It was an interesting contrast for I had read the previous day that the plane that dropped the bomb moved away from another city due to bad weather. The clouds parted just enough for the crew to see the shipyard and dropped their load, missing by about 4 kilometers.

From there to Isahaya City where Takiko and Hiroshi live. Luckily they both spoke English; Takiko better than Hiroshi, but he really spoke quite well. There house was very nice - two floors with a nice garden. They immediately offered me some beer, we sat and talked, I presented my gifts and Takiko and I shared our computers. I saw my home page for the first time from a foreign country. I took a walk by myself around the neighborhood, saw a small cemetery, the local store and elementary school, watched some kids practice baseball, and walked back.

We were joined for dinner by a family friend named Jinja. Dinner was excellent. Takiko prepared all the fixin's for sushi. There was rice (of course), Nori (?-seaweed wrapper), avocado, tuna, sticky beans, lettuce, crab meat, tofu, ginger, two or three types of raw fish, and four whole fish quickly broiled with salt. Each plate had a small sushi roller on it and we prepared our own sushi. Hiroshi called them "Japanese sandwiches." I said that now that I know how all this works I would buy some of the equipment I saw in Tokyo. A few minutes later Jinja excused herself from the table and left the house for ten minutes. She returned with all the things that I spoke of; two bamboo rollers, three spatulas, chopsticks, all in the bowl that will eventually hold the rice. I couldn't believe how generous she was - all I had to give in return were a few State pins that I've received as gifts myself - she seemed pleased with the trade; as was I.